Retinol for Newbies
Unless you’ve been living on a deserted island for the past twenty years, you’ve likely heard about the tremendous skin enhancing benefits of retinol. Perhaps you think it’s high time to begin incorporating it into your anti aging arsenal? If so, then you’ve come to the right place. We’ve created a step-by-step guide to provide everything you need to know about this powerhouse ingredient.
SO, WHAT IS RETINOL?
Retinol is often referred to as the “miracle molecule” of skin care and is a derivative of Vitamin A. Vitamin A provides a plethora of benefits such as boosting cell turnover, reducing pigmentation, treating and preventing acne, and helping to thicken the skin's dermal matrix.
It’s important to note that there are many forms of topical Vitamin A and you’ll often hear them lumped into the “retinol” category but they’re not all the same.
RETINOL VS RETINOIDS
Retinoid is a blanketed term for Vitamin A derivatives. They include both OTC (over-the-counter) and prescription strength products. Listed below are a few of the different types of retinoids:
Retinol
Tretinoin
Adapalene
Tazarotene
Retinoldehyde
Isotretinoin
Retinol esters
Retinol is a highly specialized, specific type of retinoid. It’s most commonly prescribed by doctors and medical professionals for its anti-aging abilities. So which one is most effective for treating your unique skin concerns? Let’s take a deeper dive to understand how retinoids work in the skin.
HOW DO RETINOIDS WORK IN THE SKIN?
All Vitamin A formulas start as Retinol Esters and convert to Retinol, then to Retinaldehyde and then to Retinoic Acid. Prescription-strength retinoids are pure retinoic acid, meaning there is no conversion necessary, making them highly effective but with more potential side effects.
On the contrary, OTC formulations have to convert to retinoic acid which takes time, but allows the skin to become acclimated to the formulation and reduces the chance for adverse reactions.
WHAT DOES VITAMIN A DO?
Vitamin A assists with cell turnover, increases collagen production, thickens the dermal matrix, and helps both treat and prevent acne breakouts.
Prescription strength Vitamin A has been clinically proven to reduce wrinkle depth, fade hyperpigmentation, improve skin elasticity, and smooth skin texture.
ARE THERE ANY SIDE EFFECTS TO USING RETINOIDS?
Retinoids can have side effects but will vary depending on the individual, the specific percentage of Vitamin A in the formulation, and the frequency of usage. The most common side effects people experience are irritation, erythema, and skin flaking.
WHO SHOULD USE RETINOLS?
Despite potential side effects, retinoids are generally safe and effective for most users. Most skincare experts agree that retinol should be incorporated into a person's skin care routine, usually around their mid-20s. Collagen production begins to slow as early as our 20’s leading to the formation of fine lines, wrinkles, and premature aging.
CAN I USE RETINOL IF I HAVE SENSITIVE SKIN?
Generally speaking, yes! Every person is unique and so are their skin care needs. With retinol and sensitive skin conditions it's all about the slow-and-steady approach. Sensitive skin can greatly benefit from using retinol but it needs to be introduced slowly, and at lower percentages, so the skin has time to properly acclimate.
BEST RETINOL FOR NEWBIES?
For younger patients or, retinol newbies, we usually suggest starting with a .025% and gradually working up to higher percentages. As the skin acclimates to retinol patients can slowly titrate up to stronger formulations to increase the anti aging benefits.
HOW DO I APPLY RETINOL FOR MAXIMUM RESULTS?
Slow and steady wins the race! Retinol should be incorporated into your skin regimen very slowly and with caution. The general recommendations are:
Week 1 & 2, apply retinol once per week. If you experience little to no irritation, then up the formula for the next two weeks.
Weeks 2 & 4, apply retinol twice a week. If you experience little to no irritation, then up the formula for the next two weeks.
After 1 month, apply retinol every other day. If you experience little to no irritation, you can opt to use it every night, or stick with every other night.
Apply a pea-sized amount to your face and jawline avoiding the neck; the skin on the neck is twice as sensitive as the skin on the face. Ideally, wait 30 minutes before applying any additional skincare products to allow ample time for the product to penetrate.
WHAT TIME OF DAY SHOULD I APPLY RETINOL?
Most Vitamin A molecules are photo-unstable, meaning that exposure to UV can render them useless and increase skin sensitivity. We recommend that retinol be applied as part of your evening skincare routine.
DOES RETINOL WORK QUICKLY?
Even prescription strength formulations take a while to work so be patient. One of the main benefits of retinol is to increase dermal thickness which takes time. Most individuals will start to notice the skin rejuvenating/anti-aging benefits of retinol after 3-6 months. When used to treat and prevent acne breakouts results usually happen between 6-12 weeks.
DO YOU NEED TO USE A PRESCRIPTION RETINOL?
We believe the answer is, yes! Prescription retinol is pure retinoic acid which doesn’t require conversion to work its magic giving you noticeable results faster. Experts estimate that prescription strength retinol is up to 20 times stronger than OTC retinol.
As with any prescription strength product, it is highly recommended to seek the advice of a licensed medical professional to get a clear understanding of the benefits and potential side effects.
FINAL THOUGHTS:
There is so much information about retinol that it can be positively overwhelming! As with any skin care recommendations, there isn't a “one size fits all” formula. We strongly encourage our patients to do their own research and then allow us to help formulate a skin care prescription that addresses their individual skin needs. We’ll leave you with this; when it comes to using retinol, be patient, and don’t leap into higher doses or frequency in an attempt to gain greater results.
Have more questions about retinol and whether it’s right for your skin? Book a skin consultation with our Aesthetician! Call us at 415.409.6500 or book online here!
To learn more, contact our San Francisco office and call us at 415.409.6500.