Retinol vs Retin-a

You’ve likely heard time and time again how amazing retinoids are for treating a myriad of skin concerns. Whether your concerns are fine lines and wrinkles or acne and pigmentation, retinoids can help!

Retinoids work to stimulate cell turnover, reduce and treat hyperpigmentation, liquify hardened sebum that leads to breakouts, and smooth the outer layer of skin. 

With so many benefits it’s easy to see why almost everyone should use a retinoid product as part of their skin care repertoire. With so much information and hype about retinoids, it can be hard to decipher between facts and myths.

Here’s 10 myths about retinoids that we’ll clear up so you’ll know exactly what you’re getting with this power-house ingredient.

MYTH #1: ALL RETINOIDS ARE THE SAME

Despite what you’ve heard, not all retinoids are the same. Retinoids are a family of compounds derived from Vitamin-A and are actually classified as an antioxidant! There are many forms of Vitamin-A which range from over-the-counter to prescription strength both in topical and oral form. 

Over-the-counter (OTC) retinoids are commonly found in anti-aging serums, rejuvenating eye creams, and moisturizers geared toward mature skin.

WHICH FOR IS BEST FOR YOUR SKIN? If dryness and hydration are one of your skin concerns then opt for a cream to help replenish lost lipids. Gels are a better option for oilier skin conditions as they penetrate faster making them stronger, and more effective. 

Buyer beware, faster/deeper penetration of retinoids is fantastic but can lead to more side effects such as redness and skin sensitivity.

MYTH #2: RETINOIDS THIN THE SKIN

This is a common belief due to the skin peeling/flaking that happens when an individual begins using retinoids. People assume that the flaking is leading to a thinning of their overall skin but quite the opposite is true. Retinoids stimulate collagen production which actually helps to thicken the skin's dermal matrix thus reducing fine lines and deeper wrinkles. Additionally, retinoids break the protein binding (the desmosome) adhering the surface skin cells together causing them to slough off faster. The result (after some temporary flaking) is a healthier, smoother, more youthful complexion

MYTH #3: YOUNGER INDIVIDUALS SHOULDN’T USE THEM

Retinoids were originally intended to treat acne in young patients and assist in the re-epithelization of burnt skin. A study on topical retinoid usage was published in the 1980’s showing skin health benefits such as wrinkle depth reduction and skin brightening. Shortly thereafter retinoids took their rightful place as the number one treatment for reducing visible skin aging. 

There is no age restriction on the use of topical retinoids. It’s about identifying the condition being treated and choosing the best option for an individual.

MYTH #4: RETINOIDS INCREASE SUN SENSITIVITY

Contrary to popular belief, retinoids won’t make your skin more sensitive to the sun as long as you’re using UV protection.

Retinoids actually break down when exposed to UV light making them unstable thus, ineffective. This is the reason you’ll almost always see them sold in metal tubes and are only recommended for night-time use. 

Retinoids have been extensively researched and have consistently shown that they don’t increase the risk of sunburn. Having said that though, the number one cause of skin aging is UV exposure so whether your using a retinoid or not, UV protection is a must!

MYTH #5: YOU’LL SEE RESULTS IN 4-6 WEEKS

This is likely the biggest misconception about retinoid usage. When treating acne, you may see a reduction of breakout activity within a few weeks, but stimulating collagen production and increasing skin thickness takes time. 

Over-the-counter retinol can take up to six months and prescription-strength retinoids up to three months for results to be visible. It may take even longer to see results in older individuals as the natural desquamation process skin is slower.

MYTH #6: IF YOU HAVE PEELING OR REDNESS, YOU SHOULD STOP USING THEM

With retinoids, the goal is to create a “controlled injury”. The breaking down of stratum corneum cells (the outer most skin cells) can lead to redness, irritation, flaking, and dryness. Unfortunately, it’s often a “gets worse before it gets better” scenario.

The side effects usually subside after 4-6 weeks as the skin is reaching its threshold but, in some cases, can last even longer. To mitigate these annoying and often unsightly side effects, incorporate the use of heavier moisturizers and hydrating serums.  Your future skin thanks you!

MYTH #7: THE MORE YOU APPLY, THE BETTER THE RESULTS

The only skin care product that this theory should be applied to is sunscreen! Using too much Vitamin-A, or any exfoliating product, can lead to excessive peeling and dryness. In addition, the skin needs time to re-epithelize (replace lost skin cells) to ensure proper barrier function and too much retinoid can impede that process. 

The ideal amount is roughly a pea-sized drop for the face and jawline.

MYTH #8: YOU SHOULD AVOID APPLYING RETINOIDS AROUND THE EYE AREA

The thinnest skin on the body is in the eye area making it the most susceptible to extrinsic aging. Due to the thinness and lack of oil production its usually the first place people begin to notice fine lines and wrinkles. Most people assume the eye area is too sensitive for retinoids use but that couldn’t be further from the truth! 

The eye area can greatly benefit from collagen and elastin boosting retinoids as long as it’s used appropriately and in the right concentrations. If you have sensitivity around your eyes, consider using an eye cream that contains Vitamin-A or a small amount of moisturizer under the eyes before applying your retinoid.

MYTH #9: STRONGER PERCENTAGES OF RETINOIDS WILL GIVE YOU BETTER OR FASTER RESULTS

As the saying goes “bigger isn’t always better!” Many people get seduced by the idea that stronger percentage retinoids will produce better, faster results. This isn’t the best course of action and will usually result in greater side effects. 

When it comes to retinoids starting slowly with a lower percentage and titrating up as the skin builds tolerance will create better results with fewer side effects. Slow and steady wins the race!

It’s best to consult with your physician or medical esthetician when getting a prescription retinoid as they’ll help you decide the best percentage strength, formula, and frequency for your skin type and condition.

MYTH #10: SENSITIVE SKIN CAN’T TOLERATE RETINOIDS

Retinoids have gotten a bad rap as being harsh or caustic to the skin. While it’s true they can be a little irritating, most sensitive skin conditions can safely and effectively use them with slight modifications.

Start slowly, using them once or twice a week working up to every other night. Begin by using a lower percentage retinoid and switch to higher percentages once the skin acclimates. It’s also recommended to mix equal parts retinoid and moisturizer together before applying or, layer your retinoid on top of your moisturizer.

ARE RETINOIDS A GOOD OPTION FOR YOUR SKIN?

If reducing and preventing visible aging are part of your age-management goals then the answer is a resounding, YES! After the age of 20 we begin producing about 1% less collagen and elastin per year so incorporating a retinoid product in your 20’s and early 30’s is a great way to slow down visible aging.  People of all ages and skin types can benefit from retinoid usage and the frequency and strength depends on the individual. 

When it comes to retinoids, it’s advisable to seek the advice of your physician or medical esthetician to determine the best course of action to treat your unique skin needs.

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To learn more, contact our San Francisco office and call us at 415.409.6500.