Skincare Layering

With so many skin care products on the market figuring out which ones address your needs and where they fit into your routine can be daunting! To ensure you’re getting the best results from your skin care products it's helpful to understand the art of layering. The general rule of thumb states that products should be applied in this order: cleanser, exfoliator, toner, essence, serums, retinoid, moisturizer, face oil, SPF. Now, if the idea of a nine step skincare regimen has you wanting to bury your head in the sand, we hear you! There's no golden-rule when it comes to how many products you need, whether your routine is three steps or twelve steps, using more products doesn’t always yield better results. Most experts agree that choosing targeted ingredients that address your unique needs and using them consistently are the keys to achieving radiant skin.

Fortunately, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach to layering skin care products and there are loads of exceptions. The above mentioned is simply intended to be a guide to help you choose the right products and to understand how they absorb and interact when applied on top of one another. If you’re still confused about when to apply a retinoid or whether you actually need a toner, look no further! We’ll cover in more detail the most common questions we get asked about skin care layering.

Q: Should my skin be damp or dry when applying products?

A: That depends on the product! Generally speaking most products should be applied to slightly damp skin with the exceptions being vitamin C, retinoids, and chemical exfoliants. Water is both a functional and  performance ingredient and has the ability to help products penetrate deeper and faster.

This rapid penetration will increase the efficacy of your product. Sounds great in theory, but certain ingredients are meant to be delivered more slowly than others as rapid absorption can lead to redness and irritation. Skin is hydrophilic which means it loves water but it’s also hygroscopic, which means it allows water to easily get pulled out leading to dehydration and an impaired barrier.

Basic science states that oil and water don’t mix so if you’re applying an occlusive (moisturizer/face oil) or a humectant (hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA) to damp skin you’ve got a great chance of trapping in moisture and keeping it there.

Q: Do I need to exfoliate? When is the optimal time?

A: Exfoliators have come a long way in recent years and can be found in everything from toners and masks, to serums and scrubs. To gauge which type of exfoliation is right for you, it's important to understand the differences between chemical, physical, and enzymatic exfoliation.

Chemical exfoliation loosens the binding that holds skin cells together causing them to slough off more quickly. Physical exfoliants work by mechanically removing dead skin from the top layer with the use of scrubs or cleansing tools. Enzymatic exfoliation digests dead skin cells by breaking down the keratin in the outermost layer.

Regardless of the type of exfoliator you use it’s hugely important not to overdo it! Over exfoliating can disrupt your skin's barrier function leading to irritation and breakouts. On average, most people can benefit from exfoliating 2-4 times per week without disrupting the skin's barrier. Exfoliation can be done in the morning or evening and should be performed after cleansing and before applying any additional treatment products.

Q: Do I really need a toner?

A: The not-so-short answer is, absolutely! Old school toners were mostly astringents used to remove excess oil and help dry out acne prone skin. Fortunately, toners have upgraded immensely over the years and while some performance toners still have astringent-like qualities, the toners of today focus much of their attention on hydration and balancing the skin's pH.

Hydrating toners are often formulated with much needed antioxidants that help slow skin aging. Additionally, hydrating toners increase product penetration and trap in much needed moisture, preventing dehydration. If your toner happens to contain AHAs or BHAs, then it qualifies as both an exfoliant and a hydrator. So if you’re looking for targeted results and less steps, consider adding a performance toner into your regimen.

Q: If I’m using a hydrating toner, do I also need an essence?

A: In our opinion, not really. There isn’t a huge difference between hydrating toners and essences. Hydrating toners focus more on pH while essences focus more on hydration. Essences can contain additional ingredients that target specific concerns but are not usually found in concentrations high enough to reap much benefit.

Q: If my hydrating toner contains antioxidants, do I still need an antioxidant serum?

A: Yes, yes, YES! The moment UVA/UVB and blue light hit the skin, free radicals begin to form resulting in a process called photoaging. Free radicals cause oxidative stress which leads to a breakdown of the skin's structural proteins, mainly collagen. As a result of oxidative stress the skin becomes loose, pigmented, and saggy. UV induced skin damage is responsible for 80-99% of visible aging and is mostly preventable.

So how do antioxidants help? They neutralize free radicals before they cause damage while simultaneously repairing already damaged molecules.The natural anti-inflammatory effects of antioxidants dampen your skin’s response to the sun, adding an additional layer of protection.

Studies have shown that consistent use of topical antioxidants boost the photoprotective ability of your sunscreen by up to 50%! Serums tend to have much higher percentages of active ingredients so you don’t need to use much. A few drops applied to damp skin after cleansing and toning is enough to get all the anti aging benefits.

Q: I use multiple serums, in what order should I apply them?

A: If you’re using multiple serums, the golden rule is to apply them from thinnest to thickest. Serums that are thinner and more watery are able to penetrate the skin faster. A thicker serum, such as one containing hyaluronic acid, has a more viscous consistency which wouldn't allow a thinner serum to absorb into the skin. One caveat, if any of your serums contain alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and/or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) you’ll always want to apply them first, wait a few minutes, then apply additional serums regardless of consistency.

Although we don’t love cocktailing serums as it can potentially affect their efficacy, if the viscosity is similar and the product has no potentially irritating ingredients it's a fine way to apply multiple serums, especially for our time-crunched patients.

Q: Do I need to use a retinoid?

A: In some form, yes. Retinoids are used to describe a group of vitamin A derivatives that provide tremendous age-management benefits. Retinoids are considered an essential ingredient in topical skin care and for good reason. Decades of research and well-established clinical studies have shown that retinoids increase collagen production, speed up cell turnover, reduce pigmentary irregularities, and smooth overall skin texture.

Retinoids are powerful ingredients that should be used with caution due to their potentially irritating side effects. Don’t want to deal with the dryness, flaking, and irritation as your skin acclimates to retinoids? Fortunately, there are many forms of vitamin A now available that yield great results and are formulated to be much more tolerable for sensitive skin.

Retinoids should always be applied at night on a clean, dry face. In a perfect world retinoids should be applied 30 minutes before any additional skincare but if you don’t have that kind of time, then a few minutes in between will suffice. If your skin tends to be sensitive, or you’re new to retinoids, applying it on top of moisturizer will also help minimize irritation.

Q: What’s the difference between a moisturizer and a face oil?

A: The short answer, lots! Moisturizers are water based and deliver considerable hydrating benefits. Face oils are occlusive and work to trap moisture in the skin. Face oils don’t provide moisture, they help to retain it, which is why applying a light layer of facial oil after moisturizer helps seal in hydration and prevent water loss. Oils can also help create a barrier between your skin and the elements reducing damage from external pollutants and xenobiotics.

Q: I’m inside all day, do I really need to use sunscreen?

A: Regardless of how much sun exposure you get, sunscreen is the most important step of your skin care routine. It should be applied everyday, regardless of weather, as the last step of your skin care regimen.

As previously mentioned, UV damage is responsible for most visible skin aging. Daily application of sunscreen will help prevent hyper and hypo pigmentation as well as wrinkle formation. It’s important to mention that even the most powerful sunscreen will naturally degrade on the skin after 90-120 minutes so reapplication, especially during periods of extended exposure, is critical.

Have more questions? Our highly trained professionals are experts when it comes to skin health. Booking a consultation allows us to correctly identify your unique skin concerns and create a customized plan based on products and solutions to meet your needs. So what are you waiting for? Let us help you love the skin you’re in!

Learn more about our skincare services here or contact our San Francisco office and call us at 415.409.6500.